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I wanted to add a 12V socket to the handbrake console area of ​​my Tiago a long time ago. The 12V socket provided by Tata is not well designed. The USB charger installed in the socket is not suitable for personal use, and there are many games. When driving on poor roads, the connection will loosen. Tata provides a more advanced and working 12V socket on its advanced models (such as Hexa, Nexon, Harrier). These designs are better, and the USB charger fits comfortably. In fact, Tigor was not equipped with this socket until mid-2018, after which they began to equip with the same sockets used by Tiago and other lower models. Below is a screenshot taken from Tigor's official comment.

Thiago's poorly designed 12v socket. The picture comes from the official comment.

So, I want to replace the original factory socket with an improved socket and add a socket to the rear of the handbrake so that the rear seats can more easily charge their devices.

Ordered 2 improved sockets from Boodmo.

Now, Tiago is not equipped with wiring for the rear socket, unlike Tigor equipped with a wiring harness for the rear socket. I heard that Tigor was also not equipped with a seat belt after a certain period of time. This is an easy way to check if your Tigor has a seat belt. Hold the bottom with both hands and pull it outward to remove the cover under the steering gear. The fuse box is behind the cover. In the fuse box, check whether there is a fuse or a powered fuse slot in the slot marked by the red circle in the figure below. If it is, no further reading is required, just pull the available pigtail connector to the rear of the handbrake and install the socket. The pigtail connector is located on the left side of the shift lever, and you need to make some effort to pull the harness to the rear socket area.

So I had to use the fuse connector to pull the wire from the fuse box to the handbrake area. I prefer to thread the wires through the flexible conduit because it prevents squeezing and friction.

Remove the useless 12V socket on the console (optional)

Since I also wanted to replace the front console socket with a better designed socket, I had to remove the existing socket. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers, clamp the socket at the 12 o'clock position, and then pull it outward. Repeat the process by clamping at the 3, 6, and 9'O' clock positions. It will take some effort, but the socket will pop out eventually. They will be damaged due to the use of needle-nose pliers to clamp the edges. Anyway, I am installing a new one. Before removing the connector, tie it with a suitable length of wire and leave the wire outside. This will be useful when we put back the decorative board. Because, in the process of disassembling the decorative board, the connector will be at the back and it is difficult to take it out from the small hole of the accessory socket.

Prepare the wiring harness for wiring

First draw the +ve line through the conduit. Since the conduit is corrugated, the wires may get stuck and may not be able to go further when pushed. Therefore, wrap the tip of the wire with insulating tape, and then pass the wire through the catheter. It will go smoothly. Leave approximately 10 cm of wire at both ends of the conduit for connection. Once the wires at both ends of the catheter have reached the desired length, tape the ends of the catheter to the wires. This will ensure that the wires will not return while routing. Once I took the wire out of the catheter, my back was very painful.

Strip about 1 cm of insulation from one end, crimp the speaker terminal to one end of the wire, and cover the crimping place with heat shrink tubing/insulating tape. Bend the crimp terminal onto the pipe, and wrap the crimp terminal on the pipe with insulating tape. This will help route the wires from the fuse box to the handbrake area.

For the ground wire, strip and crimp the ring terminal at one end and the horn terminal at the other end. Use heat shrink/insulating tape in the crimped area.

Route the wires wrapped in the conduit from the fuse box to the handbrake area

The plastic decorative drill bit must now be removed. First pull out the trapezoidal bottle holder cap. There is a small gap around this part. This can be removed by inserting a trimming tool into the front or back and pulling it up. It is tight, so some patience is required. Sitting on the back bench helps leverage.

Next, use a method similar to the above to loosen the AMT shift lever cover. This is much easier. Release and pull up a little bit.

Next, release the HVAC control panel. This can be pulled out by pulling the gap created between the shift lever cover and the HVAC panel. There is no need to use too much force or pull out too much. Just enough to put your finger into the gap created.

Insert the end of the duct from behind the HVAC panel, and the wire (with spade terminal) bends and sticks to the duct. Once the catheter is visible in the gap of the previously lifted AMT cover, pull the catheter and route the wiring by pushing the catheter towards the rear of the handbrake. Once it reaches the rear area of ​​the handbrake, pull out the entire length of the duct, leaving only a short length on the other side (the HVAC panel side).

Next, wire the other end of the duct, including the wires from behind the HVAC panel to under the steering column and the fuse box.

Connect the fuse connector to the end, and then insert the fuse connector into the fuse slot of the front console socket.

Clamp the ring terminal of the ground wire with one of the two 10 mm bolts under the removed back cover.

Re-fix the loose decorative board. There are three plastic protrusions on the bottom of the HVAC panel. Before pushing the panel, make sure all three are in. I broke one of the protrusions because when I tried to push the panel back, I did not observe that it was bent. Due to insufficient light, the plastic tabs that prevent the panel from sliding back are not visible. Excessive force broke it. Be patient and careful. There are almost no plastic labels on both sides of the panel. Before pushing back the panel, they must be aligned with their slots. This will take some time. When performing this section, make sure that your work area has adequate lighting. It is easy to remove the panel. It's a bit difficult to put it back. be patient.

If you remove the old 12V socket, the pigtail connector will slide back through the hole when you fight the panel when you put the panel back in place. If you tie them together with a wire as described earlier, just pull the wire and the connector will come out of the hole. Insert the connector into the new 12V socket, align the socket with the hole and push it to lock it in place.

Fix the 12V socket at the back

As shown in the figure, the 12V slot next to the handbrake is covered. Use a flat-head screwdriver to cut the label and remove the plastic sheet.

Pass the +12v and ground wires through the socket and connect them to the bottom of the 12V socket. The 12V pin on the socket is brass-colored and located in the center, while the ground pin is steel-colored and facing the side. Use this as a guide for proper connection.

Connect the wire to the base of the new socket and slide the socket into the slot. It will not enter so smoothly, it must be tilted at different angles to enter. Once in the socket, rotate the socket and align the 12V written on the top in the way you want. Slowly press down on the socket and it will lock into the slot.

This is the appearance of the connection under the lid. Make sure that the wires are not pinched or twisted.

Replace the trapezoidal cover and press it back into the slot. When replacing the cover, be careful not to pinch or crush the corrugated tube of the +12v wire in the fuse box.

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